Champagne Hughes Godme Fins Bois Extra Brut Grand Cru

Note from Paul Wasserman: “The Pinot for this cuvée is right on the chalk. It provides a profound mineral anchor while the Chardonnay goes all Tinkerbell around it, conjuring wildly with her wand discreet little comets of flavor. Then the intricate blend of reserve wines from no less than five vintages infuses everything with umami. Godmé’s Extra-Brut is baroque not in the sense that it is busy, but because the mineral anchor is so logical and the embellishments are so crystalline. It reminds me of Bach. As to the finish, it is nothing short of contemplative: deeply saline, elegantly chalky, and marvelously fine and precise. Though an NV cuvée, this is, looks, and behaves like a prestige cuvée. There are few champagnes in our portfolio I drink more of, and every time I do, Hugues’ Grand Cru Extra Brut reels me in, quiets me, and floors me. As Terry Theise wonderfully put it ‘Lots of wines, many of them good wines, let you taste the noise. But only the best let you taste the silence.’ This is one of those.”