For this month’s club we have two French wines, a Swiss white, and an Italian red. Staff member Ben Stroup wrote up the French duo, which includes a white Burgundy with a bit of age on it that we scored just enough of to fulfill the club (but then it’s gone for good, as far as we know) and a casual but intriguing red from the hills of Savoie. Staff member Irene Lozach wrote up the Swiss and Italian couple; we can’t believe a Swiss wine exists at this price, but it sure does! Stock up for your winter fondue fun! And we are suckers for Piedmont, so you’re getting another…there’s just so much to explore…and drink! We’ve really enjoyed reading the notes of our exceptionally talented staff, and we think you will too!
Happy sipping!
Domaine Goisot Corps De Garde Bourgogne Côtes D’Auxerre 2018 $32.99
Any write-up of Domaine Goisot invariably cites, at the start, the venerable Allen Meadows, A.K.A. Burghound: "No one but no one delivers more quality for the price than Goisot. The quality is flat out amazing..." We'd have to agree. Through a quirk of history, Domaine Goisot's home village of Saint-Bris was excised from Chablis in the late 19th century due to Phylloxera. Though it shares a climate and Kimmeridgian limestone with its more famous neighbor to the northeast, it’s been put into to the much less prestigious Bourgogne Côtes D'Auxerre appellation. Chablis' loss is our gain, since the Goisots have made every effort to deliver incredible quality at a regional AOC-level price.
Though their family has worked in the region for centuries, Domaine Goisot was founded by Jean-Hugues Goisot and his wife Ghislaine, and is now managed by his son Guilhem and daughter-in-law Marie. Jean-Hugues was one of the first to bring biodynamic farming to Burgundy, and the estate has been Demeter certified since 2005, almost 20 years. This is 'natural wine' at its finest: biodynamic, low yield, hand harvested, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and little to no fining or filtration, the stuff that gives natural wine a good name! The bottle we've chosen is 100% chardonnay, as with Chablis, and is aged in a combination of stainless steel tanks and 600L neutral oak barrels. These "Corps De Garde" bottlings only happen in top vintages, and are selected from the oldest vines in the top fields of their 27 hectare estate. The 2018 vintage was particularly warm, though dry, which created a large crop of very intensely concentrated grapes, and this warmth and concentration, combined with the crop control done in the vineyard, led to intensely ripe orchard fruit flavor, walking the line between classic Chablisien focus and the rounder styles of Chardonnay found to the south, in the rest of Burgundy. Jean-Hugues is frequently quoted as saying "wine is made in the vineyard, not in the cellar," and though you can quibble (wine isn't barreled or bottled or shipped across the ocean on its own, you know!) that ethos is definitely responsible for the stunning wines his son produces.
You think you know Chardonnay until you've had this Corps De Garde. On the nose, it's ripe yellow apple and pear, grapefruit rind, white flowers, sea breeze, baking spice, and a touch of tropical fruit. It's incredibly aromatic, so take your time with it in the glass, see what layers you yourself can sniff out. On the palate, it's fuller and more savory than a Chablis, but with that same mineral texture and chalk. Lengthy acidity balances the fullness, and you can't help but relish the retronasal flourishes once it's gone down the gullet. Iberico ham? Pineapple tepache? Turkish delight?! Keep your nose peeled.
Serve this on its own if you're greedy, or with nice cold cucumber sandwiches. Something about the melon note of the cucumber brings out that chalky terroir—almost makes me think I've mixed a little Sancerre into my glass. Really, anything chilled and savory would work. Perhaps the ultimate treat would be Summer's Crown Jewel of a sandwich. Of course, it would also stand up to something more substantial. It worked incredibly well with roasted chicken legs that I rubbed with garlic, preserved lemon, and oregano—and even better with the pursuant chicken salad. Domaine Goisot's website lists "noble white meats" as a pair, and I have to say Baffoni chicken qualifies.
Domaine Carrel Eugéne et Fils Mondeuse 2019 $22.99
Savoy (or Savoie, for the French) is a historical region to the southwest of Switzerland. The House of Savoy once controlled the land of "ducal Savoy" along with most of Piedmont, the Val d'Aosta, the County of Nice, and eventually Sardinia, but they sold off their eponymous duchy in the 19th century in exchange for political support from the French. That got them the crown of a newly unified Italy, sure, but they had to say goodbye to Dolin Vermouth, Comté cheese, and lots of very good wine.
When we think of Savoie and Savoyard wines, we often think of their classic whites: Altesse, Roussanne, and Jacquere. These are wines I reach for in cooler weather, say, when throwing a retro-ish fondue party (hold the shag rug), as they pair up perfectly with the region's nutty Comté cheese: ethereally light, crisp, and herbaceous. Alpine France has a red grape, though, called Mondeuse, and were I infected with the punning disease, this is where I'd insert something groan-worthy. Count your stars.
Mondeuse is a rustic grape, often compared to its neighbors in Beaujolais and the Rhône valley—take the floral freshness and vibrancy of Gamay and undergird it with the warmth and spice of Syrah, and you've got a good idea of what Mondeuse is all about. Its high acid and high tannin draw comparisons to Piedmont wines across the Italian border, and thanks to these qualities some say it has the ability to age impressively.
The bottle we've got for you comes from Domaine Eugéne Carrel et Fils, a 24-hectare family estate that stretches back to the 14th century, now farmed by Eugéne, his son Olivier, and his son-in-law Sebastien. The estate is located in the village of Jongieux, tucked between the Upper Rhône and Lac du Bourget, one of the largest lakes in France (depending on the weather). The west-facing slopes get plenty of sunlight, and the ripeness achieved despite Alpine winds and high elevation is evident in the complex aromatics of the wine. You'll find black stone-fruit like plums and black cherry on the nose, with some white peppery gamey-ness in the undertones as well, and even a little musk or petrichor. Though intensely colored, it has a light-to-medium body, and the serious tannin and great acidity present slowly and linger on the palate. Serve this with just a touch of chill to take advantage of that acidity—again, think of it as a Gamay in Syrah’s clothing.
But what to pair it with? Well, it'd be great as an aperitif wine, with hard cheese and funky salami (time to hit up your brother-in-law for some of that homemade venison sausage he's been bragging about), but the ease with which you can put it back (12.5%!) means it'd go great with a big brisket or pork shoulder, provided you're not going too nutty with rubs or sauces or smoke. It's hefty enough to handle fatty red meat, but too much spice might bury those wonderful peppery aromatics. Meat works great with Mondeuse, but if you're abstaining, I might recommend a risotto or pasta with big chunks of oyster mushroom or hen of the woods. Fry them up in olive oil, add some torn basil and fresh tagliatelle, toss with a little pasta water and a knob of cold butter over low heat until it all comes together. Remember: it’s not Italian wine, but it could have been!
L’Alpage Chasselas 2021 $22.99
L’Alpage Chasselas comes from vineyards of Mont-sur-Rolle sitting 500m above the town of Rolle in the La Côte region of Vaud in Switzerland. This region experiences warm, even hot, summers with sunny days and cold nights. Situated on the northern rim of Lake Geneva the vineyards face south gaining the full benefit of the sun’s radiation for grape ripening. So far everything here is consistent with a cool continental climate or even an Alpine climate at this latitude though a few additional factors make the climate much more temperate.
Firstly, the depth and size of the lake means it takes a long time for it to cool after the heat of summer so the water stays warm into the winter months, all the while releasing heat across the lake basin. Additionally, sunlight is reflected from the lakes surface onto the hillsides providing reflective radiation to assist in grape ripening. Finally, a fun example of atmospheric thermodynamics is at work here in the form of a warming Foehn wind* that blows during the autumn ripening period extending what would otherwise be a short summer.
The primary grape here is Chasselas and conditions are ideal for Chasselas. Known as the symbol of Swiss white wine according to Jancis Robinson’s tomb, Wine Grapes where they go on to state that Chasselas “is said to be particularly expressive in its place of origin, the wine changing markedly according to soil and climate”. Indeed, the six regions of the Vaud are defined by the terroir each possesses. Locally, many of these vineyards’ and appellations’ reputations have likened them, Mont-sur-Rolle included, to the crus of Burgundy in neighboring France.
L’Alpage Chasselas is grown on a mixed soil of clay, limestone and gravel using sustainable farming practices. The grapes are harvested by hand after which fermentation in stainless steel preserves the primary fruit character of lemon and red apple skins. A period of 6 months aging on the lees adds textural dimension and creaminess to the wine along with aromas and flavors of bright citrus fresh mowed hay, alpine herbs and wet stone. Crisp acidity propels a faint briny mineral quality and creaminess across the palate through the wines lengthy and quite broad finish.
Chasselas is a classic match for cave aged Swiss mountain cheese like Gruyere and for fondue in winter. Maybe it’s the sunny label, however, that makes me think of lake trout packed with thin slices of lemon and a few sprigs of thyme and tarragon then grilled to a gentle sear and served with ripe tomato and corn salad with more herbs. Maybe even a side of crispy herb roasted potatoes to boot!
*A Foehn wind occurs on the leeward side of a mountain range. In this case, moist Mediterranean air blows across the Alps, the air’s moisture is dropped on the windward side (as rain on the Jura in France) while the resulting dry air races down the leeward slope warming as it falls through altitude. This can result in a 14°C air temperature increase.
Azienda Agricola Giovanni Almondo Roero DOCG 2020 $27.99
Piedmont
Piedmont is complicated. Just about as complicated as Burgundy. Both have layer upon overlapping layer of delineation, in some instances going down to the vineyard level, and there with several families/wineries farming, row by row, the same site. It can be mind boggling. Here we’ll be focusing on Piedmont’s largest province, Cuneo, in the southwest.
Cuneo
Cuneo, the home base of Nebbiolo, has two important wine zones on its eastern side. The first and best known of these is Langhe where we find the sub-zone of Dolcetto d’Alba within which are nested the denominations of Barolo, Barbaresco and part of the Nebbiolo d’Alba (which also nearly engulfs Roero). And it gets far more granular from there. While the exploration of the Cuneo province is well worth undertaking, our focus today is on the second zone of this province, Roero.
Roero
Roero sits across the Tanaro River from Barolo and Barbaresco and makes white wine from a local variety called Arneis along with red wine from Nebbiolo under the zone’s DOCG regulations. Showing further similarity to Burgundy these wines are often 100% varietal which is unusual for Italy.
Roero is a family name dating back to the middle ages when they were a powerful banking family but the important stuff defining Roero happened long before the Roero family arrived on the scene. The domed, undulating hills of Roero, are distinct from the long ridges of Langhe across the Tanaro river. Geologically these two sides of the river are distinct as well. About 100,000 years ago the Tanaro changed course from joining the Po river just south of Turin to its position about 50 miles east of that point today. This activity formed the domed rolling hills of Roero. Millions of years prior to the river’s course change the region was part of a sea known as the Golfo Padano which created the sand and silt dominated soils of the region.
Montà
Situated at the northern edge of Roero is the town of Montà where the Almondo family has resided for 600 years. This area has long been known for grape growing alongside asparagus, peaches, and strawberries. Wooded lands abut vineyard land making Montà a polyculture in contrast to the uninterrupted patchwork of connecting vineyards that form the monoculture of Langhe. The combination of a rich biodiversity, balanced mineral rich soils, dry growing conditions with sufficient winter precipitation make this an ideal environment for the organic farming Az. Ag. Giovanni Almondo practices today.
Bric Valdiana vineyard
Three clones of the Nebbiolo variety are planted on the family’s Bric Valdiana vineyard, the primary source for Giovanni Almondo Roero DOCG. This 6ha vineyard is steep and faces south-southwest to receive direct sunlight throughout the day, a requirement for ripening Nebbiolo’s abundant tannins. At the top of the slope are the youngest soils formed 4.5 million years ago by a shallow sea bed. At mid-slope the soils date back 5.5 million years to a deeper (500m) seabed. Overall the soils are composed of 35% sand, 40% silt, 25% clay with 12% calcium concentration. The sand in this mix allows for complete drainage of excess water while silt and clay hold water to sustain the vines through a dry summer. Well drained soils result in vibrant flavors, calcium is thought to contribute mineral complexity while clay soils promote power and help the grapes retain acidity as they ripen. To me, that is the very definition of balance in the vineyard that leads to the same in the glass.
Giovanni Almondo Roero DOCG 2020 has an unusually limpid ruby appearance. The aromas graduate from cranberry to sour cherry to wild black raspberry, then come violet and rose floral notes along with woody vetiver, black pepper and a warming hint of cinnamon. On the palate wild forest berries, an earthy, balsamic smokiness, and more of that lush sour cherry. The tannins are apparent so serve this wine at a classic cellar temperature of around 57° F for maximum deliciousness. And it is delicious.
Almondo Roero DOCG speaks to the duck lover in me and this Melissa Clark creation with grapes and Graham Masala is super. I’d serve it with haricot vert topped by vinaigrette marinated diced shallots. Of course, my fantasy plate also has herb roasted crispy potatoes but I’m obsessed. Here’s that recipe again anyway: Serious Eats Crispy Potatoes
Members receive a 10% discount on regularly priced wines, regardless of whether or not the wines are part of a club pack. This discount does not apply to sale items, blue-tag wines, or boxes/cans/alternative packaging and cannot be added to any other discount or promotion. The discount is good on wine only, and is active for the duration of the club membership. As of now it can only be used in-store or over the phone; it will not work online. Twelve bottle case discount remains 12%.